| Using a jack, raise the rear of the car completely off the floor. I would strongly recommend the use of axle stands under the car and wheel chocks on the front wheels to ensure your safety should the car move or jack fail. Note that it is advisable to have both rear wheels clear of the floor... | |
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Remove both of the rear wheels and pull the little rubber grommet out of each of the handbrake adjustment holes on both of the rear brake disks Release the handbrake lever within the cockpit to turn the handbrake off and retract the shoes away from the brake disk |
| With the handbrake released turn one of the disks so that the adjustment hole is aligned at the bottom of the disk to gain access to the handbrake adjuster | |
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Using a flat head screwdriver turn the cog of the handbrake adjuster - note here that the rear disk has been removed to aid clarity on the lower picture- the disk does NOT need to be removed to adjust the handbrake! The stock direction is to turn the cog upwards to take up excess slack, but the adjuster can be fitted either way around so you may have to trial which way takes up the slack on your car... You are aiming to get the wheel to easily turn by hand but the handbrake to ever so slightly catch/bind |
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Repeat for the other side of the car and then test your handbrake from within the cockpit Note - you are aiming for 4 – 7 clicks on your handbrake lever within the cockpit Tip - adjust so that the handbrake is fully on and the wheel does not turn, and then slacken off the adjuster by approx 4 turns and then verify the wheel easily turns and you can just hear the handbrake shoes catching |
| Once you are satisfied with the handbrake adjustment, replace the rubber grommets and wheels ensuring that you torque the wheel bolts to 103Nm | |
| Take the car for a drive and verify that the handbrake is not dragging, if it is then you have adjusted the handbrake too tight. |
