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The stock 165 pump looks like this... |
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Remove bracket and rubber damper (seems to be there to stop vibrations against the body) |
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Remove 3x 10mm head bolts from water end of pump (two are holding a bracket on there) and prise the cover off |
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Undo two screws on the motor end. This bit was very very hard to remove, I had to tap a thin screwdriver in between the
middle housing and the motor housing with a hammer and prise apart, pull the cover off |
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Whilst holding the coil, under the 10mm nut holding the impellor on, and remove |
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Carefully remove and keep in order the nut, spring washer, impellor, spring assembly |
 
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The bearing to be replaced is on the end of the shaft, (motor end) |
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Unscrew the PCB and pull the two wires through to give some movement when the shaft comes out |
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The shaft and coil with the PCB removed |
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Basically, there is a bearing at the end of the motor case (easily visible) and another in the middle
section. It is an ‘interference’ fit and needs mucho persuasion to get it out. You need to hold the centre housing and tap the shaft out of it from the wet
end.I did this by putting the housing against the edge of a bench and tapping the shaft until it popped out. |
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Put the shaft in a vice and tap the bearing off the end of the shaft. It will be very tight. |
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One bearing removed from the shaft |
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The old knackered bearing |
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Place the new bearing onto the shaft and push down as far as possible. Use a deep reach 10mm socket or similar
to put over the shaft and tap the bearing home up to the circlip |
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Do the same to the bearing the other end if necessary |
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To get the centre housing back on, put it over the shaft up to the bearing. It’s a tight fit and won’t slide
straight over. Stand the shaft up in a vice and use a large socket (I used a 27mm) over the centre housing to tap it with a hammer until it is back in place |
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Re-assemble in the reverse order. I used some instant gasket around the rubber o-rings to make sure there
was a good seal since they’re old |
