Change a Steering Rack Gaiter

* This article has pictures from the 165, however the procedure is much the same for the 185 and 205 *


Before I start what bits/tools do I need?

How did you replace the steering rack gaiter?

The job took ~1 hour because of the old gaiter clip...

Sourcing the replacement gaiters was tricky as very few suppliers seem to manufacture the gaiters
Jack up car, chocks wheels, fit and axle stand and remove the wheel. The first job is to separate the ball joint from the hub. Remove the split pin and undo the nut. Carefully locate this under the ball joint and gradually tighten the bolt to release the ball joint from the hub
The ball joint will pop out of the hub. Mark the position of the ball joint with Tippex or similar and unscrew the lock nut...
...and unscrew the ball joint from the track rod, and then remove the nut
The gaiter has a very awkward to get at clip...
...use a cross head bit to loosen the securing band. You won't get a right angle screwdriver or a short fat dumpy screwdriver in to undo the bolt
Simply pull the gaiter off and down the track rod
The old and new gaiters
  Replacement is a reversal of removal. Fit the new boot, taking care not get get any debris inside the gaiter, lightly grease the track rod ball joint and secure both ends of the gaiter, cable ties are easier to fit than the old clip...
  Inspect the ball joint making sure the protective boot is in good order and the ball joint will spin smoothly and does not have excessive play. Screw on the lock nut and then the ball joint up to the mark on the thread you made previously, torque the lock nut to 56Nm. Refit the ball joint onto the hub, torque the nut to 49Nm and fit a new split pin. Don't forget to get the tracking done


Any questions or suggestions then please feel free to e-mail me


This article was written as a handy guide as to how I replaced a steering rack gaiter. If you are in any doubt or not qualified then do not conduct this maintenance. Always consult a professional. Alterations away from the manufacturers specification are not recommended.

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